CROSSING THE STYX
THE DUNSTAN TRAIL Part. 2 Paerau to Clyde
Part one of this back road adventure on the Old Dunstan Road took us from Dunedin over the Mauangatua Hills, and Lammermoor Range into the valley of the Upper Taieri River at Paerau west of Ranfurly. Part two covers the route from Paerau to Clyde.
The Dunstan Trail is important historically, for not only was this the artery of Otago’s 1860s Gold Rush, but the Dunstan Trail is one of the few pioneer roads remaining much in it’s early, unsealed form. All the more remarkable that the track is still open to all traffic over summer months to the adventurous who wish to drive a vehicle through remote country. The Trail is closed each year from the first Tuesday in June until the end of September to preserve the track surface.
The Dunstan Trail is important historically, for not only was this the artery of Otago’s 1860s Gold Rush, but the Dunstan Trail is one of the few pioneer roads remaining much in it’s early, unsealed form. All the more remarkable that the track is still open to all traffic over summer months to the adventurous who wish to drive a vehicle through remote country. The Trail is closed each year from the first Tuesday in June until the end of September to preserve the track surface.
There’s little to see now at Paerau, barring the old hotel and gaol. This was once an overnight stop on the trail, that in the 1800s took about three days by Cobb and Co coach and for the far slower bullock drays, up to three weeks to cover. Paerua was once called Styx, after the mythical river of hate that was said to wind around Hades. No doubt the inspiration came from the sinuous oxbow bends of the Taieri River, but I have found it more often a place of blue skies and keen anticipation for the almost 100 km ride over Rough Ridge to Alexandra.
Leaving the flats at Paerau the Dunstan Road climbs again over Rough Ridge, rising to over 3000 feet. The lush pasture of the Maniototo is soon behind as the climate becomes drier and the terrain a sea broad folding ridges and golden tussock grass. But beware, this is an area earmarked for hundreds of wind turbines. Personally I think they will ruin this unique wilderness considering the modest amounts of power generated and I would rather see one of the hydro schemes (like Clyde with its two blind penstocks) extended.
Leaving the flats at Paerau the Dunstan Road climbs again over Rough Ridge, rising to over 3000 feet. The lush pasture of the Maniototo is soon behind as the climate becomes drier and the terrain a sea broad folding ridges and golden tussock grass. But beware, this is an area earmarked for hundreds of wind turbines. Personally I think they will ruin this unique wilderness considering the modest amounts of power generated and I would rather see one of the hydro schemes (like Clyde with its two blind penstocks) extended.
Passing the Poolburn Reservoir the magnificent isolation continues as the country takes on a unique feel as rock Tors increasingly dot the landscape. Tucked between the magnificent barrier chain of the Southern Alps to the west, the Old man Range to the south and the series of ranges we have crossed, we are now entering the dry heart of Central Otago.
Winters are cold and harsh with plenty of snow. After the spring melt there’s little prospect of rain through the summer months. Invariably clear skies flood the rock and tussock hills and temperatures in the valleys can climb to 30 degrees celcius for weeks on end, but higher in the hills beware, because temperatures can plunge below freezing at any time.
Dropping briefly again to the flats at Moa Creek the Dunstan Trail climbs its last saddle over the Crawford Hills, before the gentle descent to Alexandra. Those who have had enough of gravel and dirt can connect with SH 85 at Galloway, but the intrepid will follow the original trail through the ford on the south bank of the Manuherakia River and cross the old road/rail bridge.
Though this may feel like the end of the road you can continue the Dunstan Trail up the northern side of the Alexandra all the way to the old town of Dunstan, now of course called Clyde, a good place to break the journey. However central Otago is a paradise for the adventure rider and there are several interesting ways to advance from here, but we will leave these for another issue.
If you have a question or are interested in personal off road coaching, don’t hesitate to email me at jnick@nztrailrider.co.nz
Winters are cold and harsh with plenty of snow. After the spring melt there’s little prospect of rain through the summer months. Invariably clear skies flood the rock and tussock hills and temperatures in the valleys can climb to 30 degrees celcius for weeks on end, but higher in the hills beware, because temperatures can plunge below freezing at any time.
Dropping briefly again to the flats at Moa Creek the Dunstan Trail climbs its last saddle over the Crawford Hills, before the gentle descent to Alexandra. Those who have had enough of gravel and dirt can connect with SH 85 at Galloway, but the intrepid will follow the original trail through the ford on the south bank of the Manuherakia River and cross the old road/rail bridge.
Though this may feel like the end of the road you can continue the Dunstan Trail up the northern side of the Alexandra all the way to the old town of Dunstan, now of course called Clyde, a good place to break the journey. However central Otago is a paradise for the adventure rider and there are several interesting ways to advance from here, but we will leave these for another issue.
If you have a question or are interested in personal off road coaching, don’t hesitate to email me at jnick@nztrailrider.co.nz
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IRON DOMICILES
Novelist and satirist Anthony Trollope travelled by coach over the through Central Otago on his 1873 tour through New Zealand. His trip from Queenstown to Dundedin took six days. Here’s what he had to say about the accommodation houses on that part of the journey.
The inns at which we were stopped were not delightful. The rooms formed of corrugated iron are small and every word uttered in the house can be heard throughout it, as throughout a shed put up without divisions. And yet the owners and frequenters of these iron domiciles never seem to be aware of the fact. As I lay in bed one night in one of these metal inns of the road, I was constrained to hear the private conversation of my host and hostess, who had retired for the night. “So this is the Anthony Trollope”, said the host”. “he must be a ………….. fool to come travelling in country like this in such weather as this”.
Novelist and satirist Anthony Trollope travelled by coach over the through Central Otago on his 1873 tour through New Zealand. His trip from Queenstown to Dundedin took six days. Here’s what he had to say about the accommodation houses on that part of the journey.
The inns at which we were stopped were not delightful. The rooms formed of corrugated iron are small and every word uttered in the house can be heard throughout it, as throughout a shed put up without divisions. And yet the owners and frequenters of these iron domiciles never seem to be aware of the fact. As I lay in bed one night in one of these metal inns of the road, I was constrained to hear the private conversation of my host and hostess, who had retired for the night. “So this is the Anthony Trollope”, said the host”. “he must be a ………….. fool to come travelling in country like this in such weather as this”.