JOHN NICK'S ADVENTURES NZ
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FITTING THE RIGHT BARS FOR YOU

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Without doubt the handlebars are the most critical control on the dirt bike. Fit the wrong bars for the bike or the rider, and man and machine will never work in harmony.
Establishing just what bars are perfect for you and how they should be set up, is not so simple. However, by first understanding the principles every rider should be able to experiment and achieve the right bar set-up.

We all know that humans come in all shapes and sizes - even dirt bike riders are human. Dirt bike manufacturers have to settle on a bar that suits the average sized rider. However even establishing the average isn’t easy: for instance, though I have short legs, I was dealt a long body, long arms and wide shoulders, and there are people with every inconvenient combination you can think of. What will work for one rider, may not for another rider or on another bike with different dimensions and characteristics. Some racers even use alternate bar set-ups for different terrain types, or tracks.
  Luckily for us the wide range of handlebars and mounting accessories now available mean that every bike can be tailored to the rider, and even the type of riding and terrain ridden. Bars can vary in many ways: overall width, rise (height), sweepback and even the width of the riser section, a dimension which trail riders fitting Barkbusters might have found critical. The resulting position must allow the rider to centre their head and shoulders over the vital area of control: the handlebar mounts.
  Most late model dirt bikes provide a degree of bar adjustment with reversible clamps and even spacers for height adjustment. Of course every bar can be rotated forward and back in the clamps for no cost to give a surprising range of adjustment. Even small changes can be felt, so before you go out and spend up on accessories find out if your stock bars can be optimized.


Here are some quick handlebar diagnosis.

Bars are too high: the rider will be too upright and, though great downhill, will find it tiring on the arms standing when going uphill or accelerating. The bike will tend to wheelie when not wanted. Steering will be vague and the bike will steer wide, especially on slippery corners. 
Bars too rear-set: as for above and the rider will frequently drop back on the seat. 
Bars too low or too far forward: when standing the rider may be cramped in the back, neck and shoulders. The bike will probably turn like a snake but will feel twitchy in the steering. Riding sand will be scary. Over bumps and whoops the rider may struggle to keep the rear end under control and on the ground.
Bars too wide: this applies to very small riders and juniors especially and usually indicates as for bars too low or too far forward.
Sore wrists and outside forearm tendons: bars may be too straight with too little sweep back, or too wide for the mechanics of your body and wrists. 

And some quick handlebar prescriptions.

Tall riders: generally need higher bars or setting bars further forward, or a combination of both.
Short riders: may be most comfortable with bars set on the rear position and bars that are not too wide or straight.
Very small riders: may require a narrower junior bar and as above.
Fast rough cross country and sandy terrain: many riders feel more comfortable with a higher bar.
Technical slippery terrain: usually best tackled with a lower, more forward set bar.
Go out and experiment, but one word of caution. Bear in mind that changing handlebars also affects suspension settings, but that’s another story.


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