The visitor’s guide to discovering back country New Zealand
Polynesian voyagers called it Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud. You might know it as New Zealand, land of Lord of the Rings scenery, full on outdoor adventures and massive rugby players. You might also be interested to know that NZ is also a land of stunning adventure riding, a destination that offers adventure enthusiasts something different, gravel roads, challenging tracks, achingly beautiful landscape, yet all set in an first world environment.
What makes NZ such a gem for the adventure biking enthusiast is a combination of geography and demography. Roughly the size of the UK and Ireland, NZ comprises two large and many small mountainous islands set in the vastness of the South Pacific Ocean. In terms of latitude NZ covers some territory, roughly from Birmingham to Casablanca in northern hemisphere terms, yet is home to just four million people, most of whom live in a handful of towns and cities.
NZ it has been said is all the countries of the world rolled into one compact package. This might sound overblown, but until you get there it might be hard to imagine that along with active volcanoes, stunning coastlines and lush pastures NZ’s landscape is shaped by alpine ranges that form widely different climatic regions: from the lush sub-tropical north, to temperate rain forest and dry inland regions covered with golden tussock grasses. On the coasts are the lush pastures that grow the world’s finest free range dairy produce.
What makes NZ such a gem for the adventure biking enthusiast is a combination of geography and demography. Roughly the size of the UK and Ireland, NZ comprises two large and many small mountainous islands set in the vastness of the South Pacific Ocean. In terms of latitude NZ covers some territory, roughly from Birmingham to Casablanca in northern hemisphere terms, yet is home to just four million people, most of whom live in a handful of towns and cities.
NZ it has been said is all the countries of the world rolled into one compact package. This might sound overblown, but until you get there it might be hard to imagine that along with active volcanoes, stunning coastlines and lush pastures NZ’s landscape is shaped by alpine ranges that form widely different climatic regions: from the lush sub-tropical north, to temperate rain forest and dry inland regions covered with golden tussock grasses. On the coasts are the lush pastures that grow the world’s finest free range dairy produce.
GRAVEL ROADS
If you like the road less travelled this is the place to go. NZ has few motorways, most of these around the only major city of Auckland in the North Island.
Barely more than half of New Zealand’s 100,000 km of public roads are tar sealed and somewhere upwards of seventy percent of rural roads are made up of glorious crushed gravel. No butt-numbing dusty straights to another flat horizon, these are sinuous pathways, twisting, climbing and descending through spectacular, constantly changing, terrain.
For most visiting riders a tour through NZ once meant an all tar-sealed affair on the major touring routes. However more and more adventurers are discovering the real NZ back country, the tens of thousands of miles of gravel back roads and dry-weather summer roads, and the more technical off-road trails.
While the riding might be as challenging as any you will find anywhere, NZ is a safe and welcoming destination. The food is probably the freshest on the planet and the friendly informal people will welcome you with open arms,and as is so often the case, the further you make it off the beaten track, the better the welcome. Should you have the bad luck to need it, rescue and medical facilities are top class.
Barely more than half of New Zealand’s 100,000 km of public roads are tar sealed and somewhere upwards of seventy percent of rural roads are made up of glorious crushed gravel. No butt-numbing dusty straights to another flat horizon, these are sinuous pathways, twisting, climbing and descending through spectacular, constantly changing, terrain.
For most visiting riders a tour through NZ once meant an all tar-sealed affair on the major touring routes. However more and more adventurers are discovering the real NZ back country, the tens of thousands of miles of gravel back roads and dry-weather summer roads, and the more technical off-road trails.
While the riding might be as challenging as any you will find anywhere, NZ is a safe and welcoming destination. The food is probably the freshest on the planet and the friendly informal people will welcome you with open arms,and as is so often the case, the further you make it off the beaten track, the better the welcome. Should you have the bad luck to need it, rescue and medical facilities are top class.
ORGANISED ADVENTURE
NZ also has many organised adventure rides that the gregarious traveller can join. Free spirits need not fret, these aren’t regimented affairs. In the typical laid-back Kiwi way there are self-guided and fully guided rides catering for relative beginners to seasoned experts. Locally organised rides and tours have the advantage of logistical backup for more remote areas, and are also an opportunity to ride vast areas of private farm and conservation land that the public does not have access to. By no means least, these rides are also a chance to meet local enthusiasts; for many visitors these have been the start of lasting friendships.
NZ’s premier self-guided event is the annual Yamaha Safari, a three to four day ride over back roads and private farmland with routes laid out to suit both large and lightweight bikes. Riders follow a route map to each overnight stop where accommodation, food and social activities are laid on. Fully guided adventure trail rides cover more challenging off road terrain over three to six days and suit lighter enduro bikes.
NZ’s premier self-guided event is the annual Yamaha Safari, a three to four day ride over back roads and private farmland with routes laid out to suit both large and lightweight bikes. Riders follow a route map to each overnight stop where accommodation, food and social activities are laid on. Fully guided adventure trail rides cover more challenging off road terrain over three to six days and suit lighter enduro bikes.
SAFETY AND WHEN TO GO
NZ is generally a very safe place to visit. Beware of the usual petty crime, especially in towns and tourist hot spots, but don’t be paranoid as Kiwis are much more likely to invite you camp on the lawn and stay to a Barbie than pinch your bike.
Covering a wide range of latitude NZ climate differs markedly from south to north. As much of the best adventuring is in the much cooler south, winter months should be avoided. Best times for travel are November to May with January to April the most settled months. Daytime spring and autumn temperatures vary between 12-22 degrees and in summer 16-30 degrees, so your kit needs to be layered and flexible. Count on some rain every week west of the mountains (no rain forest without rain) but drier and warmer east of the ranges. By watching the forecast it is possible to work the weather by dodging across the passes from side to side. In alpine areas snow can fall at any time. From Christmas Eve to the end of January most Kiwis are on holiday, which means a widespread exodus from city to country, so accommodation can be tight.
ACCOMMODATION
Whatever your budget NZ is an easy place to travel. If you are camping there are hundreds of campgrounds and remote Conservation Department camp sites to choose from. Off the beaten track there are plenty of opportunities for wild camping, but ensure that you bury waste well clear of streams and take your rubbish with you. For a solid roof over your head try campground cabins, or the extensive backpacker hostel network. Motels are found everywhere and are a good option for small groups as Kiwi motels are a home away from home and are equipped with a full kitchen and all the kit to self cater.
Covering a wide range of latitude NZ climate differs markedly from south to north. As much of the best adventuring is in the much cooler south, winter months should be avoided. Best times for travel are November to May with January to April the most settled months. Daytime spring and autumn temperatures vary between 12-22 degrees and in summer 16-30 degrees, so your kit needs to be layered and flexible. Count on some rain every week west of the mountains (no rain forest without rain) but drier and warmer east of the ranges. By watching the forecast it is possible to work the weather by dodging across the passes from side to side. In alpine areas snow can fall at any time. From Christmas Eve to the end of January most Kiwis are on holiday, which means a widespread exodus from city to country, so accommodation can be tight.
ACCOMMODATION
Whatever your budget NZ is an easy place to travel. If you are camping there are hundreds of campgrounds and remote Conservation Department camp sites to choose from. Off the beaten track there are plenty of opportunities for wild camping, but ensure that you bury waste well clear of streams and take your rubbish with you. For a solid roof over your head try campground cabins, or the extensive backpacker hostel network. Motels are found everywhere and are a good option for small groups as Kiwi motels are a home away from home and are equipped with a full kitchen and all the kit to self cater.
WHERE TO RIDE?
FIVE GRAVEL ROADS
Coromandel Ranges gravel classics: Tapu to Coroglen Road, 309 Road, Cape Colville and Jacksons Bay Roads.
Taranaki Tunnels: explore the remote country between Mokau, Ohura and Whangamomona - see how many tunnels you can find.
Gentle Annie Road: Waiouru to Napier over the rugged Kaimai Ranges.
Picton to Blenheim: via Port Underwood – this glorious winding gravel route takes three times longer than the main road.
Mysterious Fiordland: take the Lake Hauroko and Borland Saddle - roads to the primeval rainforests.
FIVE DRY WEATHER TRACKS
Old Dunstan Road: the 1860s gold rush route over three mountain ranges from Dunedin to Clyde.
Rainbow Track: St Arnaud to Hanmer Springs, following deserted valleys through the Alps.
Nevis Track : from dry Central Otago to lush Southland, including 27 fords and a climb to 4000 feet.
Molesworth Road: the iconic high country summer journey through NZ’s largest farm.
90 Mile Beach: riding the hard sand on a remote West Coast beach to Cape Reinga.
Big Skies: a 300 km high country journey via Mackenzies, Hakataramea and Danseys Passes.
FIVE ROUGH TRACKS
Waikaia Bush Track: over the 5000 ft Old Man Range connecting Otago to Southland.
42 traverse: through rugged rain forest from National Park to Mt Ruapehu.
Big River track: following the gold miners’ trail into the West Coast forests.
Macauly River: splash your way 50 km up an alpine river into the Southern Alps.
Black Forest hydro track: a spectacular journey through the arid Kirkleston Mountains above Lake Benmore.
DIY RIDES
Check out my DIY Rides elsewhere on the site, these articles describe some public access rides in detail.
Coromandel Ranges gravel classics: Tapu to Coroglen Road, 309 Road, Cape Colville and Jacksons Bay Roads.
Taranaki Tunnels: explore the remote country between Mokau, Ohura and Whangamomona - see how many tunnels you can find.
Gentle Annie Road: Waiouru to Napier over the rugged Kaimai Ranges.
Picton to Blenheim: via Port Underwood – this glorious winding gravel route takes three times longer than the main road.
Mysterious Fiordland: take the Lake Hauroko and Borland Saddle - roads to the primeval rainforests.
FIVE DRY WEATHER TRACKS
Old Dunstan Road: the 1860s gold rush route over three mountain ranges from Dunedin to Clyde.
Rainbow Track: St Arnaud to Hanmer Springs, following deserted valleys through the Alps.
Nevis Track : from dry Central Otago to lush Southland, including 27 fords and a climb to 4000 feet.
Molesworth Road: the iconic high country summer journey through NZ’s largest farm.
90 Mile Beach: riding the hard sand on a remote West Coast beach to Cape Reinga.
Big Skies: a 300 km high country journey via Mackenzies, Hakataramea and Danseys Passes.
FIVE ROUGH TRACKS
Waikaia Bush Track: over the 5000 ft Old Man Range connecting Otago to Southland.
42 traverse: through rugged rain forest from National Park to Mt Ruapehu.
Big River track: following the gold miners’ trail into the West Coast forests.
Macauly River: splash your way 50 km up an alpine river into the Southern Alps.
Black Forest hydro track: a spectacular journey through the arid Kirkleston Mountains above Lake Benmore.
DIY RIDES
Check out my DIY Rides elsewhere on the site, these articles describe some public access rides in detail.
HIRE BIKES
Adventure hire bikes are available from a number of operators. BMW models from the F650 to the large GS predominate though lighter models like the Suzuki DR650 are also available. Hire bikes are normally fitted with standard dual purpose tyres that are OK for gravel road riding. If you intend to ride one of the organised rides, a 650 model fitted with chunkier tyres like Conti TKC80s is a good idea for all but highly experienced riders.
www.nzbike.com
www.nzmotorcyclerentals.com
www.ardmoremotorcyclerentals.co.nz
www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz
www.motorbiketours.co.nz
www.citymotorcyclerentals.com
BUYING A BIKE?
Some motorcycle dealers will entertain a buy back deal in which case a buy back price will be agreed on the basis of kilometres covered and wear and tear sustained. Another option if time is not critical is buying a bike. The best place to contact dealers, buy a bike or just get a feel of the market is on NZ’s excellent Trade Me website: www.trademe.co.nz
RIDE ORGANISERS
Britton Motorcycle Adventures organize several local rides including the Yamaha Safari, suitable for larger bikes, plus several guided regional off-road adventure trail rides. www.adventureride.co.nz
See also:
www.adventurerides.co.nz
www.puredirttours.co.nz